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Below are answers to common questions and problems, or Frequently Asked Questions, that often go unanswered that User Generated Content creators or game developers need answering that haven't been elsewhere. For a full list click here »
WARNING: disabling/enabling lid autoboot only works for Intel based MacBook Air/MacBook Pro's, performing the below may disable Arm 'M' based devices, preventing them from booting altogether.
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Basic instructions for setting up PNG Puppeteer with OBS.
The setup for PNG Puppeteer [alt Git respository] is a little more involved than other PNG Tuber apps but is still flexible.
Download: Puppeteer v 0.0.3.zip (mediafire)
To set up PNG Puppeteer make sure to have at least four source images, typically;
Each image needs to be specifically (re)named as follows (either PNG or JPG files);
In Windows/MacOS file explorer, right-click and Rename, or slow-double-click and type the corresponding label above.
Note: images need to have transparent backgrounds or the background needs to be a solid colour, primary green for example, if they are to be used as an overlay - transparency excludes the background, a solid colour allows for 'chromakey' removal.
In the installation directory/folder for PNG Puppeteer (where the app was installed/extracted) create a new folder, e.g. "Avatars" [1]. If several avatars are to be swapped out, create additional folders for each tuber avatar inside the parent folder ("Avatars"), e.g. "beenz", "tankie", "tubz" and so on, for example;
Inside each 'avatar' folder should be another folder labelled "Normal", and a file called "myavatar.ava" [2] - to create "myavatar.ava" add a standard 'Text Document' and rename it "myavatar.ava". Only the name matters so the file should be blank if opened;
Once this structure is in place the png avatar images can be dropped or copied into the "Normal" folder ready to be loaded into the app.
Providing images are correctly named, per the above, they should load automatically into PNG Puppeteer, in the correct order, and into their respective slots. To do that, click in the Load Avatar button upper-left [3], browse to the "myavatar.ava" file [4] that corresponds to the avatar image-set to be loaded and click "Open" bottom-right [5] of the file browser. PNG Puppeteer will load the images and place them in the appropriate slots based on their file names.
Once the images have been loaded, to use set the microphone input in Microphones [6], click the Start button [7] and then slide the Mouth Open Threshold option [8] until the mouth opens and closes appropriately in response to audio/mic input.
Once everything is set up in Puppeteer, to use the loaded avatar with OBS; create a new capture instance in Sources by clicking the + button [9] lower-left corner or the panel. Select Browser [10] from the list. In the overlay that opens set the URL to http://localhost:65000/viewer, this is the local, system, resource address for previewer in Puppeteer. Set Width and Height to match the dimensions of the png avatar images e.g., Width: 640, Height: 640. Click OK to confirm.
The avatar should then appear in the Preview window. If the overlay cannot be moved (no red adjustment lines appear/shown) make sure Preview is unlocked, right-click and select Lock Preview from the menu (Lock Preview locks and unlocks). And then click-drag the overlay to move it and/or click-drag or Shift-click drag a corner or edge marker to change the overlays dimensions. The avatar should then be ready for use.
Ever wondered what's inside a 'replica' Seiko 5 Sport's (Field Sports) watch from China? As it happens, not a lot.
First things first, how do you tell the difference between counterfeit Seiko 5 Fields Sports and the real thing.
Notwithstanding the price difference - $20 versus $200+ (assuming the buyer hasn't been truly conned, Ed.) - it's immediately apparent by the fit and finish, the initial tell being the sharp edges around the casing, barely polished out flashing from what is a stamped part. The dial of the fake has flat printed numbers whereas, depending on the model, they should stand slightly proud of the surface, so too will the branding and logo.
The back, while it might be stainless steel as is the true Seiko, the wrench grommets on the fake are poorly defined. Taking this off however, is where the lack of magic truly sucks all the light from the room, its little more than a collection of thin plastic parts and small circuit board with a battery - the one of two metal parts are primarily springs and retention brackets.
The dial facia is stepped, the minute marker being a band glued in place with crazy glue. The date and day wheels are thin printed plastic. Taken as a whole it's remarkable something with so many critical parts are made from relatively fragile plastic - if the watch works it's likely to have a very short shelf life as a result.